06 July 2008

...on entering the boundary waters...

"What do we leave behind when we cross a frontier? Each moment seems split in two: meloncholy for what is left behind, and the excitement of entering a new land." (Che Guevara, Motorcycle Diaries)
Exactly.

It is now July and I'm entering those boundary waters between Vietnam and USA. My calendar tells me the jump is on July 19th, when I embark on travels to PA, NH, UK, NY, and finally IN to begin grad school. Each moment indeed seems split in two...

Melancholy...
...For dear friends, coworkers, and host family that I have grown close to here. While this year has been challenging in some ways, these people are the ones who keep the laugh in my heart and joy in my steps.
...For a go-with-the-flow lifestyle. I often have no idea about the agenda of a given day, but have learned to take things as they come (or don't come). I eat what's put in my bowl. I go where the van takes me. I have few expectations so I'm not upset by changes.
...For fresh fruits and veggies, every day, year-round. When it's mango season, we eat mangos (and lots of them). When it's lychee season, we eat lychee every day. My food comes from the same country I eat it in, and probably just outside of town. As my fellow SALTer Rachel put it, eating local isn't a movement here, it's life.
...For rice. If it's true that you are what you eat, I may resemble a giant grain of rice when I return. Sticky rice for breakfast, rice for lunch, rice for dinner, and rice noodles thrown in for variation. I've grown so accustomed to it that a meal without rice just doesn't quite seem complete A rice cooker is at the top of my shopping list for grad school!
...For language. I've spent nearly a year working so hard on learning Vietnamese--language school, private study, working with my host sister, hours with friends over coffee (or mango smoothies)--and I've come to the point where I can understand quite a bit. I can strike a hard bargain in Vietnamese and make people laugh with simple stories. When I return, all that hard work will be complete jibberish to everyone I know. Fun sayings like "ơi giời ơi," and "ăn cơm chưa?" will be as void of meaning as they were for me a year ago. If I bow my head to you, consider that a greeting or a thank you. If I wave my fingers with my palm down, please come to closer. Work with me--I've lost track of what's Vietnamese, what's American, and what's Ugandan.

Excitement...
...For dear friends and family who I haven't seen in far too long. Big hugs and long chats coming your way... :)
...For fresh air and grass between my toes. These are both unattainable in Hanoi.
...For eavesdropping. To be able to understand fast, quiet conversations around me without any effort may leave me overstimulated for some weeks. Newspapers and radio in English. One-liners and language puns that used to be a large part of my joking around.
...For big family gatherings where I know everyone, everyone knows me, and I can understand and contribute to conversations without feeling dumb. It's the simple things in life.
...For libraries with shelves and shelves of books in English that I can borrow for free. Whoever invented this concept was a genius.
...For autonomy. Being able to make decisions about what to cook and cooking it myself without being told I'm peeling the wrong way or using not enough MSG, where to go, who to meet, etc. Being an adult, basically.
...For grad school--both terrifying and exciting. Mostly exciting, if I don't think of the stress of papers and long readings. Ethnomusicology and journalism is pretty much my dream degree.

Right-o, that's enough for now. As each moment is split in two, I grieve for what is left behind and push forward to what is ahead, fully embracing the contradictions and ironies as I navigate the boundary waters.

30 June 2008

Fun in the Sun

Pictures from April, May & June... a little of work, a lot of play (this ratio is more proportionate to the times I had a camera and wanted to take pictures than to how my time was actually spent).


29 June 2008

Green Transport Day

The last project of Action for the City that I want to highlight is Green Transport Day. This film explains it well (can you spot me?):

18 June 2008

Photovoice: river pollution through fresh lenses

Another major project that I've been involved with this year is a photography exhibition called, "Mirror? If the river could speak." But it's not just an exhibition. Here's a press release that I helped write for the Museum of Ethnology, one of the most prominent museums in Hà Nội:

"On 1 June 2008,
Mirror? If the river could speak will open at the outdoor exhibition area of the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology. This photography exhibition is the result of a project that brings together community, environment, youth, and creativity. 19 young photographers from the Youth Union of Thinh Quang ward in Hanoi worked under the guidance of Paul Zetter, director of Ensemble Creative Training and Development, and Action for the City, a local NGO with a passion for the city. The project was funded by the SIDA Environmental Fund.

"Mirror? uses the technique of photovoice, a community-building methodology that aims to deepen and enrich a person’s engagement with their community at different levels, both personal and social. The end product of mainstream photography projects—the photographs—becomes secondary in photovoice where a renewed sense of engagement in the community, the making of new relationships and personal growth are the primary goals.

"The project focused on building the participant’s confidence, self esteem and self expression so they feel confident to use basic cameras as a tool of inquiry—a mirror for their new awareness and interest to rediscover their community. The cameras were basic and the photography training rudimentary to minimize pressure to take ‘beautiful’ photographs
at the expense of full engagement with the community.

"60 photographs will be displayed at the exhibition. The main subject of
Mirror? is the To Lich River, famous for its past beauty and present pollution. Some pictures in this exhibition expose the raw and filthy aspects of the river while others depict hope and humor. The questions asked by all of them are, 'If the river could speak, what would it say? Is the river a reflection of our lives?' The exhibition invites the viewers to reflect on issues that face the city.

"Before this exhibition,
Mirror? was displayed at the Thinh Quang Primary School, Thai Thinh Junior Secondary School, and a teacher's conference put on by UNESCO. The current exhibition has been redesigned and reprinted for display at the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology."

We began this project back in September and it is still going. I helped document the workshops in photos and notes, helped design the exhibition, and did a lot of the behind-the-scenes tasks along with the other staff at Action for the City. This project has been especially exciting for me, to see an alternative and creative approach to development and to use stories and photos for a potentially heavy and dry topic like river pollution.


02 June 2008

Just Massage: Empowerment, Opportunity, Dignity

Just Massage is the longest-term and most involved project of Action for the City. Instead of trying to explain everything, let me just post an article that I wrote for a women's magazine in Hanoi:

"A young woman kneels in a gently-lit room and pours oil into her hands. After making sure it is warm, she spreads it onto the back that is resting before her and begins to work the oil in, up the spine and over the shoulder blades. The only sound in the room is meditative music and soft breathing. The woman is centered and mindful of her movements but at the same time beams from the inside out.

"This is Nguyễn Thị Hè and she is proud of her work at Just Massage. 'When I do this job,' she says, 'I can give pleasure and relaxation to the clients, to the other people—this is my happiness. Other people’s happiness means my happiness. When clients feel stressed and troubled, they come here and I can help them release the tensions.'

"Hè was born in 1986 in Gia Lam district, Hanoi. As a visually-impaired youth, however, she had few opportunities for employment and little chance for a fair wage. Along with four other visually-impaired youth, she has found a home at Just Massage. She explains, 'At first my family also didn’t like the idea of massage, but after I expressed my feelings and opinions about my job, they understood and changed their opinion. Now they feel very happy because I finally found a stable and well-paid job.'

"Just Massage began as a collaborative effort between Action for the City (a local non-profit organization) and Maryknoll (an American Catholic mission organization in Vietnam). A professional massage therapist from the USA worked for months with the youth, teaching them Shiatsu and Swedish Therapeutic massage, human anatomy, hygiene, English, and business and marketing skills. This will eventually enable the youth to run their own business without external help. In order to deeply understand the ritual of massage, the therapists also spend time meditating and learning to focus. Just Massage opened in December 2007 and has been steadily attracting more clients.

"In a city where being visually-impaired is a serious handicap, Just Massage is a kind of haven for both therapists and clients. When asked what her favorite aspect of massage is, Hè responded, 'The most interesting thing when I do massage for the clients is that I can help them relieve tensions and help them become happier. After finishing the massage, I usually ask them, "How do you feel?" And often they say, "Very good," and I feel happy. I feel the most important thing is to concentrate hard on doing massage for the client to help them relax a lot.'"

This is Just Massage. This is a place of empowerment, opportunity, and dignity. What is my specific role here? I write articles such as the one above, design flyers, update the website, take photos for promotional use (or recruit others with better cameras to take photos--thanks Brent), teach English (back in the Fall), offer my body for massage practice (so sacrificial, I know), and work together on marketing strategies. Now that our funder has pulled out, we are working hard to break even and be self-sufficient. It's exciting for me to write an article, have it published in a popular in-flight magazine, then hear of people coming to Just Massage from the airport. Hey, this real-world stuff is pretty great! :) If you're ever in Hanoi, you know where to come for a Just Massage...